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Chef-owner Romy Dorotan claims to be entirely self-taught, but it's hard to believe given the high professional caliber of this kitchen. He also claims the menu reflects the dishes of his childhood, another statement you'll find suspect if you've ever traveled in Southeast Asia. Dorotan and his wife, Amy Besa, hail from the Philippines, but the menu here is more nouveau Pan-Asian than traditionally Philippine. One of the best meals here, though, is the Philippine brunch, where the selection is fascinating and nearly overwhelming. — Steven A. Shaw

Squash soup with crab dumplings, $10; chicken adobo (braised in sherry vinegar, bay leaves, garlic & chilies), $19.50; Romy's spareribs with mashed taro & sweet potatoes, $20.50; black rice paella, $20.50