116 Montague St.
This venue is closed.
Nouveau and traditional Italian cooking collide at this slightly chilly spot, making for a tough balance, but some interesting results. The neon-lit décor—walls alternating wide planes of contrasting colors with exposed brick spray-painted silver—are of a piece with the culinary technique, which is a little more concerned with unique ingredients and combinations than the ultimate effect. The Bresaola’s fine air-cured beef is nearly defeated by a pungent tapanade, and flavorful grilled shrimp has to contend with both a spicy rub and a piquant salsa accompaniment, which makes for a lot of heat on one plate. More conventional dishes like fried calamari, coated in panko breadcrumbs, are simple and nicely done, but chicken parmesan, the ultimate Italian-American standby, has an unusually stark presentation. Fortunately the location makes up for some of the meal’s shortcomings—at dinner’s end, you’re steps from the Brooklyn Heights promenade. —Jonathan Dixon