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This traditional French brasserie comes from the owner of Smith Street's Bar Tabac and Soho's Cafe Noir. In a space adorned with expected touches—tiled floors, aged mirrors, and vintage Centre Pompidou posters—executive chef Pierre Landet sticks to Gallic staples. Waiters don floor length aprons, fitted red leather vests, and suitable European accents. For dinner, there’s a caramelized onion and goat cheese brightened with tomatoes and black olives, heaping portions of mussels done three ways (white wine, Provencals, or in a creamy, pastis-spiked sauce), and a slab of Steak Frites to choose from. The crowd remains light-hearted. After Sunday brunch—a $19.95 prix fixe includes strong coffee and a cocktail—play a round of table football on the pretty sidewalk patio as you digest your oeuf a la Toulousaine, a soft-boiled egg surrounded by sausage and then breaded and fried, served over roasted tomatoes. — Sarah Horne

Sat.—Sun., 11 a.m.—4 p.m.

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New York Magazine Reviews

• Adam Platt's Full Review (11/7/05)