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Chance is easily the glitziest restaurant on Brooklyn’s understated Smith Street. The plate-glass windows are tinted, the stainless-steel bar fronts a “bubble wall,” and the host wears his French cuffs and slouchy suit with a certain panache. The menu, though, which bills itself as French-Chinese fusion, is a work-in-progress: The kitchen turns out straightforward Chinese fare like Peking duck along with dishes like rack of lamb with a “shallot sauce à la Pierre Gagnaire.” In time, the twain shall meet: According to the host, the search is on for a head chef, “to create the fusion.” — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Daily, 4 p.m.–11 p.m.; three-course dinner, $17-$26