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Among the cheap eats lining the bustling, gritty thoroughfare of Ninth Avenue, this corner Thai ranks above average on both setting and sustenance. Huge, tinted glass windows cover much of the exterior, and are painted a shade of faded peach akin to the color of a Thai iced tea. Inside, mirrored walls add a sense of spaciousness to an already amply sized dining room bearing a slightly elevated section in back. Wooden trim with delicate, cut-out engravings skirts the ceiling’s perimeter and gilded figurines are scattered throughout. Each table gets a magenta orchid and an immediate helping of that Thai staple: crunchy, foam-like colored chips. Perfect for two to share, the Chanpen combo brings together starters like paper-thin gelatinous dumplings filled with rich peanut chunks and shrimp wrapped in fried, flaky dough. Knockout barbecued jumbo shrimp arrive in a pan, seasoned with a subtle, savory tamarind sauce and accompanied with large scallions, chopped onions, peppers, and mushrooms. Such inventive house specialties and a trio of frogs legs inject personality into the otherwise expected, well-executed, selection of noodles, curries, and chilis. Though that doesn’t mean the food is fiery —head elsewhere if you crave heat. — Kate Appleton

Chanpen combo, $8.95