Profile

Karen and David Waltuck have always genially but firmly operated on the principle that Chanterelle is one place where you're not going to have it "your way." That's because their way is better. After 25 years of proving this to be unequivocally true, they've melted the resistance of all but the anhedonic. Just the Waltucks' unwavering beliefs about what makes an evening physically unforgettable-huge Queen Anne chairs; big, unadorned plates; soft lighting against flat—painted dusky coral walls devoid of art; no music, ever; enough space between tables for a man to get on bended knee without tripping a busboy—compel a diner to erase any thought that might distract from the evening at hand. Then there are the pomp-free waiters, abundantly informative and gently persuasive, guiding you toward the house's failsafe pleasure source-the gentle harmonies of David's cooking. The menu changes monthly, but what doesn't waver is his quiet yet resolute, idiosyncratic passion for how he works and what he does. Other chefs have more panache, or provoke more pow. David just smiles beatifically and cooks, letting his food, or Karen—the most mood-elevating sprite ever to grace a restaurant—speak for him. And what they say is, "We're so glad you came here wanting something memorable. Because here it is." — Hal Rubenstein

Five-course tasting menu, $95

Weddings
For foodie couples, Chanterelle is an elegant setting that seats 80 guests. The rotating menu from the regular restaurant proves it can meet the needs of picky eaters and pull it off with style. From $95 per person for cocktails; $195 per person for dinner.

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• 101 Best New York Restaurants for 2006 (1/9/06)

Recipes at Chanterelle

• Shrimp Risotto (2008)
• Filet of Beef With Oysters and Wild Mushrooms (2008)
• Turnip-and-Potato Gratin (2007)