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Charm means entice, and entertain, and enchant, but the Thai definition ("bowl") also comes into play at this sleek restaurant. On its exposed-brick walls, the restaurant has arrayed bowls of different shapes and colors to catch your eye. With such nomenclature and décor, you might expect more spoonable dishes to arrive on your gold-flecked black table. Far from it; this kitchen strays not only from the original concept but also from the homeland's cuisine somewhat surprisingly. You'll find steak teriyaki alongside eggplant basil and seafood linguini alongside steamed dumplings. Which is not to say tradition is thrown out the window: Charm's flavorful version of the signature noodle dish Pad Thai is chock-full of scallions, bean sprouts, and chicken (and mercifully less greasy than what you've come to expect). — Candace Taylor