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This Cantonese eatery has the hall-like atmosphere and banquet seating of a typical mid-level Chinatown eatery, but is geared toward Asian businesspeople who dine in packs and order their Hennessy and Grey Goose by the bottle. While the restaurant doesn’t advertise its fish in tanks like many surrounding spots, the chefs’ seafood preparations shine. Manila clams are served in a heap with savory black-bean sauce; strands of shredded, pan-fried jellyfish, crispy on the outside but with a chewy interior, are served over paper-thin slices of fatty pork. Crispy roast squab, too, is rich and pleasingly gamey—though it comes with an inexplicable garnish of Pringles potato chips. The food is less successful when it strays from Cantonese style; a supposedly spicy Szechuan Kung Pao chicken, for example, is mild even by American standards. — Michael Y. Park

Clams with black bean sauce, $12.95; sliced pork with jellyfish, $10.95