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The ambiance of BONDST founder Jonathan Moore’s subterranean French-Japanese spot pairs well with its sleek hotel host, the Dream Downtown. The velvety loungelike space has textured beige wallpaper and plush banquette seating with photos of samurai and geisha as accents. Service includes formal flourishes like hot oshiburi towels and chopsticks balanced on smooth stones, but Cherry still has the group party vibe of the meatpacking district. Nearly every item on Choi’s extensive, ten-group menu contains traces of both East and West, like a fleshy mushroom salad balanced by sharp mustard greens and a crunchy, creamy cucumber roll with tart, French-inspired ume dressing. Another standout is a just-crisp gyoza filled with a naturally sweet short rib and foie gras stuffing topped with a plum glaze and a single sour cherry. Even steak au poivre is presented delicately, flavored by cracked pepper and a very mild sauce with strips of sweet-potato tempura on the side. Also of note: an extensive selection of Japanese liquors chosen by house sake master Chris Johnson. — Patrick Coffee

Steak Au Poivre, $34