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From a one-time strip of mom-and-pop shops and small cafes, Carroll Gardens' Smith Street has emerged as a prime restaurant destination. Chestnut distinguishes itself via the artistry of chef Daniel Eardley, formerly of An American Place and Washington Park in Manhattan. Eardley grew up on a farm and believes in using organic ingredients grown by small farmers. He's the sort who, in a heartbeat, will head up to the Hudson Valley to forage for wild mushrooms. His modern but cozy dining room complements the chef's focus on small-batch cooking and pleasurable eating. Seasonal menus are prepared with a minimalist bent, without much garnish or fuss, and include Old-World-informed savory small plates, like salt cod brandade with crostini, and substantial main courses, like hangar steak, pork chops, and skate meuniere, each plated with a well-thought-out medley of sides. The wine list is three times as long as the menu, and has been selected to pair well with specific dishes. Chestnut draws neighborhood regulars, many of whom seem chummy with the owner and waiters, reflecting the kind of low-key vibe that many come to Brooklyn for. It may not bowl you over, but will definitely leave you happily satisfied. — David S. Hirschman

Chestnut has a Sunday brunch, nightly tasting menus (wine pairings optional), and prix-fixe chef's specials midweek, on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.

Hanger steak, $27

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• Places to Eat After the Farm Aid Concert (9/3/07)
• Cheap Eats Guide 2006 (8/7/06)

Recipes at Chestnut

• Tatsoi Salad With Rutabaga, Bosc Pear, and Horseradish (2006)