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Chez Lola describes itself as a “bistro sans frontiers.” Yet that motto seems more apt for the charmingly improvised interior, complete with a box-spring repurposed as a wine rack, than for the French cuisine, which nods to the Mediterranean and Mexico. Art Deco-lettered menus evoke a twenties vibe; pressed-tin walls, hung with large-scale canvases and art photos, are painted a creamy lime green, and tables are topped by fabric under glass then flanked by mismatched rattan chairs. Mexican chef Octavio Simancas, also of nearby restaurant Chez Oskar, delivers reliable bistro staples like steaks, chicken Provençal, and grilled New Zealand rack of lamb flavored with mustard and fennel butter; croques madame and monsieur and a house omelette, stuffed with leeks, apples, and brie cheese, star at his popular weekend brunch. Homemade buns wrap the burgers; a particularly tasty scallion-studded salmon version is finished with a fiery roasted tomato-chipotle sauce. On the side, skinny onion rings are flecked with hot pepper for an appealing kick. Who would have thought that Myrtle Avenue would have it so good? — Ethan Wolff

French onion soup, $6; rack of lamb, $20