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As synonymous as Chinese restaurants are with New York City, finding a good one can be a tall order. Chiam may not have the foodie cred of China Grill or Shun Lee Palace, but this Hong Kong-style Cantonese eatery is a few steps above your average delivery joint. Behind a façade of glass bricks and stone, the calm, elegant space is divided into several rooms, making the otherwise obscene square footage seem quaint. Wooden beams are left exposed overhead, blue lanterns hang down the walls, and a cluster of fresh flowers sits on every table. Perennials like General Tso’s chicken and Beef with Broccoli are done right—with less grease and higher quality meats than at most restaurants—and higher priced items like shark’s fin soup and twin lobster rolls do not disappoint. The menu also features a “spa” selection of dishes that contain no salt, sugar, or oil. But it’s the unexpected touches, like the lemon sorbet between courses and a surprisingly extensive wine list, that make this one a keeper. — Andrew Paine Bradbury

Comb of shark’s fin soup, market price; twin lobster rolls, $18.50; filet mignon with black peppercorn sauce, $21.25