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Attracting a congenial mix of Peruvians and dressed-down locals, Williamsburg’s Chimu has a familial vibe. The layers of cultures, which have impacted Peru, are evident—from Italianesque plates of spaghetti, to Chinese-influenced fried rice dishes, to Spanish empanadas. Starch staples of potato, yucca, and plantain anchor the sides, while steaks, chicken, and seafood make up the mains. The restaurant specializes in the cuisine of the Peruvian coast, where the Chimu people once reigned, so it’s no surprise that seafood is prominent. The masterpiece is the mixed-seafood ceviche, a gigantic platter of raw mussels, crab, shrimp, and delectable white fish, seasoned with lime and cilantro. Hearty seafood stews join juicy Pollo a la Brasa among the entrées. Chimu also doubles as a steakhouse, with skirt steaks and a savory shell steak seared with garlic and olive oil. The small, low-key main dining room has mottled red walls and a sparse collection of Peruvian tchotchkes. The garden out back makes the most of a cinderblock enclosure—geraniums and cheerful murals of pre-Columbian icons surround wrought-iron café tables. The effect is a cheerful but mellow blend of Williamsburg and Peru, as appealing as the hearty, down-to-earth cooking. — Ethan Wolff

Ceviche mixto, $14.95; lomo saltado, $12.95; pollo a la brasa, $15.95