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Previously a dingy Mexican grocery store dealing respectable tacos in back, Chinantla went through a major makeover in 2008. Where there was once questionable upkeep—grimy floors, dirty bodega shelves—there’s now sepia-toned photos of Mexican cowboys hanging on sponge-painted walls, plus two flat-screen TVs and a flashing jukebox. Only the men who sit around tables sipping beer remain the same. The food is better than before. The menu now includes more full platters combining rice and your choice of meats, but the best bets continue to be smaller items, like tacos, sopes, and cemitas (sandwiches similar to tortas, but Pueblan in origin and made on fluffier, sesame-seeded rolls). Orders now come via waitress, and the cooking is less greasy and more consistent. The carnitas taco is an exceedingly tasty stand-out, made with pulled pork rather than the typical cubed bites. Diners can watch their meals being prepared behind a counter in the back, which can be useful—if you see a guy pressing fresh tortillas, order a quesadilla or a huarache. — Nina Lalli

Thankfully, a grocery component remains up front. The chipotle peppers in adobo sauce that made your torta so delicious are available in cans for $2.50 on your way out.

Carnitas taco, $2; cemita with beef milanesa, $6; chilequiles, $6.