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In Tokyo there’s no shortage of quaint little spots, often in unexpected places, serving home cooking away-from-home. The East Village now has this spot, and it, too, is in the unlikeliest of locales—in the middle of Curry Row. The small, rosy-walled dining room is dominated by a mahogany-colored communal table with a vase of pink-hued blossoms in the center. That delicate touch comes courtesy of the eponymous chef/owner, who prepares Japanese comfort food with care and subtlety. The appetizers favor vegetables, like kabocha squash gently simmered so it retains a chunky texture along with its innate sweetness. The shiitake mushrooms in the gyoza render the vegetable variety so meaty they could be mistaken for pork dumplings. Chiyono’s mellow cooking style—without bold seasoning—continues with entrees like a giant, moist salmon collar; soft pork belly with hints of sweet soy sauce; and chicken croquettes, breaded and crispy on the outside and creamy on the inside. — Kathleen Squires

The $30 omakase course features 4-course of chef’s choice of appetizer, entrée, soup and dessert.