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Choga, set on a second-story perch, offers a neat, homey respite from grubby Bleecker Street, with unpretentious furnishings妖ark wood tables, red beaded vases, and polychrome light fixtures葉hat suit the accommodating menu and moderate prices. An extensive list of homestyle Korean entrees showcases yuk gae jang (stewed beef, bean sprouts, and fat glass noodles in a medium-spicy broth) and sweetly tender, soy-glazed, sesame-sprinkled galbi short ribs. Even though there’s ample inexpensive sushi, teriyaki, and tempura here葉ight-wrapped, inside-out spicy tuna rolls with generous dabs of Sriracha-style hot sauce, and Americanized rolls with battered seafood and cream cheese葉he light, well-executed Korean dishes like crispy, pan-fried Choga dumplings and bibimbab, warm rice piled high with thin slices of beef, julienned vegetables, and circled with a healthy dab of red pepper paste, are better, braver choices. Branch out; much more than kimchi awaits. — Ganda Suthivarakom

Choga dumplings, $7.95; beef bibimbab, $15.95