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853 Manhattan Ave.,
Brooklyn, NY 11222
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Sun-Wed, 8am-9pm; Thu-Sat, 8am-10pm
G at Greenpoint Ave.
$6-$9
Cash Only
Accepted/Not Necessary
This Polish diner is reminiscent of an Eastern European milk bar, selling heaping, but cheap, meat-and-potato-type dishes to blue-collar workers. Though it’s a local haunt for the Greenpoint Polish enclave, it also caters to the youthful overflow from Williamsburg and the waitresses do speak English. Vegetarians and calorie counters beware: This diner’s specialty is pork, and most everything is heavy on butter. A typical starter is the hearty white borscht, a sour rye-based soup with a milky consistency, cooked with fatty white sausage. Polish platters offer crisp-skinned kielbasa that still oozes its juices when sliced, and sauerkraut cooked enough to mellow its brininess, but the selection falters with overcooked, mushy stuffed cabbage and tough fried pierogies. The Hungarian pancake, covered in paprika-infused chicken goulash in soupy tomato sauce, should be eaten right away when it’s crisp and glistening from the fryer. No Polish dinner is complete without a blintz, and here the filling of ricotta-like, sweetened cheese wins out over the choice of added fruit from a can.
Recommended DishesHungarian pancake, $7.25; Polish platter, $6.70; cheese and plum butter blintzes, $5
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