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Steak in the Hellenic tradition is the star of this Astoria chophouse, a restaurant that thrives thanks to Greek hospitality. The host treats his guests with the gracious bow of a Four Seasons maitre d' while the dining room calms the eye with a crisp décor quietly spruced up by vintage photos. Christos runs its own butcher shop next door—dry aging everything from T-bones to porterhouse—so you know you're cave-man portioned slab is fresh. Though a quick sear for extra caramelization would enhance the juicy ribeye, the preparation with olive oil, fresh oregano and rosemary delivers a zesty flavor nonetheless. Among the notable appetizers/sides are the lemony potatoes and a trio of dips: tangy tzaziki, salty tarama and roasted eggplant.  Amuse bouches between courses are thoughtful, but clearly pre-made; a subtler treat is the refreshing dessert of yogurt, sweet thyme honey and crunchy walnuts. — Liz Zack

Christos wine list boasts more than 75 Greek bottles, as well as a fine after-dinner drink selection.

Ribeye steak, $34