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Ciao Bella is the fourth addition to Enrico Proietti’s swank Upper East Side Italian empire, which includes Baraonda, Per Lei, and Bella Blu. The dining room is decked out with ebony floors, black wood paneling, and a recessed ceiling finished with red crocodile leather and elaborate Murano chandeliers. The food here spans all regions of Italy. Gnudi Toscani—nearly flourless gnocchi made with spinach and ricotta cheese—are wonderfully delicate, and sit in a tomato sauce that is fresh-tasting, if not exceptionally flavorful. A sprinkling of tangy Taleggio cheese adds a needed punch. Grilled baby chicken that has been marinated in olive oil, garlic and rosemary is split down the middle, flattened, and slowly grilled to succulence. In keeping with Proietti’s clubby aesthetic, shimmering red glass mosaics draw attention to the room’s long bar, where lychee martinis are the favored tipple of a stylish, mature (and boisterous) crowd. — Michael Anstendig

Tortino di melanzane alla parmigiana, $14; gnudi Toscani alla bava di pomodoro taleggio, $18; pollastrello organico al mattone patate arrostite, salsa al limone e herbe, $24