Profile

The blue awnings hanging over sunflower and lemon-decorated windows are the first clue to the Tuscan character of this Midtowner. Its clean décor, well-spaced tables, and two sun-filled dining rooms house diplomats, office toilers, and affluent Tudor City residents to decompress from the 42nd Street bustle outside. Thoughtful details, like a fragrant sprig of rosemary tucked into napkin rings and a generous, gratis lump of fresh ricotta with the bread basket, complement a broad, seasonal menu. Selections span from simply dressed pastas to grilled meats and fish. Plates of Prince Edward Island mussels are popular for the terrific pinot gris broth laced with orzo and lemon zest; also winning are the charred yellow fin tuna loin with a tender, rosy center and the jumbo lump crabcakes, plump with meat, not filler. Many make a meal of the substantial salads alone, though the hoisin-marinated pulled duck with glazed cashews comes too saturated with miso-orange vinaigrette. The highly recommended homemade sour cherry chocolate biscotti, however, make up for any of the rare missteps. — Kathleen Squires

Prince Edward Island mussels, $16; sour cherry chocolate biscotti, $9