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Oversize letters in the window spell out "Paris Style," in case you didn't immediately catch on to this renovated restaurant's brasserie theme. Everything else about the buzzing, art deco-decked spot is just as subtle—giant cuts of meat, a seemingly endless supply of wine, and noisy groups. As long as you're not looking for quiet, intimate romance or life-changing cuisine, Cite's special wine dinner is a good option for oenophiles who simply want to have fun. A choice of some impressive—and unlimited—pours from the sommelier's collection promise a very high dollar-to-enjoyment ratio, with the edible ballast of a tasty, if underinspired, three-course meal. Offered after 8pm Monday through Saturday (5pm in summer), and after 5pm on Sunday, diners can choose anything from French-leaning specials like fish du jour meuniere, seared scallops, or roasted rack of lamb. Those who forgo the steaks, such as the flavorful rib eye and sirloin cuts, will have entrée envy, however. It's wise to go for the lighter appetizer selections, because the desserts, like pistachio cheesecake with chocolate sauce and a truffle brownie sundae, are hyperbolically indulgent. Then again, enjoying excess is obviously the point here. — Kathleen Squires

Extra

The adjoining Cité Grill's more casual menu features burgers, croques monsieur, steak, and moules avec frites, of course.

The pre-theater prix-fixe dinner, from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m., Monday through Saturday, features three courses for $39.50.

Recommended Dishes

Shrimp cocktail, $19; beef short ribs, $22; dry-aged rib steak, $42; dry-aged sirloin, $39

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