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“I’m a gringo preaching the taco gospel,” says Los Angeleno Adam Frank, a former event planner and gallery director, now the owner of Cochinita. Frank is willing to concede that New Yorkers’ understanding of Mexican cuisine has progressed “beyond the ingredients for nachos,” but ascertains that there’s still plenty of work to be done. He makes the process relatively painless, though: You order at the counter, where a cashier rings it all up on an iPad—a transaction we imagine wasn’t much in evidence in the Mexican wholesale-market food stalls that inspired the shop’s design. The pork in the signature taco filling, the Yucatán specialty cochinita pibil, is humanely raised. (Humane treatment extends to vegetarians, as well, via a few meat-free options.) There’s also flan for dessert and a selection of beers.