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Col legno means "with the wood," an instruction to a violinist to use the wood of her bow to make a percussive sound. At the restaurant of the same name, the term describes how they cook, with a wood-burning oven. Hung on the yellow brick walls is a revolving exhibit of paintings—an often striking visual counterpart for the clean, simple Tuscan cuisine. Both pastas and grilled meats are guilelessly prepared with olive oil and fresh herbs, be it the Carciofi alla Guidia, a Roman dish translated as artichokes in the Jewish style or the Pappardelle al Cinghiale, fresh wide noodles with a hearty, spicy sauce of ground wild boar. Where herbs are noted on the menu, they are always fresh, and provide the dominant flavor notes as is certainly the case with Tagliatelle al Funghi, an earthy blend of housemade pasta in which thin ribbons are mixed with wild mushrooms and sprigs of fresh mint. With menu items topping out under $20 for a nicely charred grilled steak, Col Legno is a terrific bargain. — Nancy Davidson

Carciofi alla giudia, $8.95; trota l'Umbra, $14.95; pappardelle al cinghiale, $15.95