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Free carafes of so-so wine may draw locals to this affordable hangout, but they come back for the expansive, crowd-pleasing menu. In the spacious, wood-accented dining room decorated with busy blue-and-white wallpaper, a bustling mix of diners devour generous platters of Chinese-American familiars, like beef chow fun, chock-full of springy noodles, and slightly spicy sesame chicken. The menu offers plenty of more adventurous choices, like the "spicy and sour" pork intestine with vegetables or sliced scungilli—a variety of whelk—drizzled with a fiery roasted chili sauce. Vegetarians can discover savory plates, like the sautéed loofah with bean curd, though tried-and-true meat-free standbys, including a tender eggplant in garlic sauce, are often best. Those seeking quiet conversation should note that the room can get rowdy on weekend nights, thanks to the good-enough grub and gratis alcohol. — Alexis Korman

Sesame chicken, $9.95; beef chow fun, $6.75