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Compass

Critic's Pick Critics' Pick

208 W. 70th St., New York, NY 10023 40.77738 -73.982853
nr. Amsterdam Ave.  See Map | Subway Directions Hopstop Popup
212-875-8600 Send to Phone

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  • Cuisine: American Nouveau
  • Price Range: $$$$

    Key to Prices and ratings

    Upscale
    • Almost Perfect
    • Exceptional
    • Generally Excellent
    • Very Good
    • Good
    Cheap Eats
    • Best in Category
    • Excellent
    • Delicious
    • Very Good
    • Noteworthy
    • Very Expensive
    • Expensive
    • Moderate
    • Cheap
  • Reader Rating:

    8 out of 10

      |  

    16 Reviews | Write a Review

Photo by Shanna Ravindra

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Official Website

compassrestaurant.com

Nearby Subway Stops

1, 2, 3 at 72nd St.

Prices

$13-$34

Payment Methods

American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, Visa

Special Features

  • Brunch - Weekend
  • Dine at the Bar
  • Good for Groups
  • Private Dining/Party Space
  • Prix-Fixe
  • Take-Out

Alcohol

  • Full Bar

Reservations

Recommended

Profile

This venue is closed.

In yet another premature midlife crisis, Compass has redesigned itself for the third time and emerged looking good, with a new seafood focus. The powers here deserve an A, if just for perseverance. I’m not sure who gets the blame for the fussiness—consulting chef Neil Annis or his executive, Milton Enriquez. Still, I love the sashimi-style hamachi, the voluptuous diver scallops with curried couscous on fennel purée, and his exquisitely cooked skate wing with French lentils (this on the commendable $35 prix fixe). The daily whole fish—it might be a good-size branzino—is a steal at $39 (especially if you’re used to the per-pound pricing at Milos). And then there are the extras: Cheddar-and-chive biscuits, old-fashioned corn bread, runners who know the ingredients, apricot gels and chocolates, and that endearing lagniappe, a muffin to carry away for breakfast. Though not exactly daring, the chef’s new à la carte menu hits obvious favorites—bluefin-tuna tartare, monkfish with bacon, luscious lobster on tarragon bread pudding. For seafood abstainers, there’s foie gras, steaks, and squash-ricotta ravioli. All of it is arranged pretentiously under “fin fish,” “flat fish,” and “no fish,” rather than by appetizers (pricy at $13 to $18) and entrées. Items on the prix fixe worth ordering à la carte include the splendid chopped-vegetable and roasted-beet salads, and the arctic char. Confit of apple and a tasting of chocolate are my desserts of choice.

Brunch

Sun., 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.

Prix-Fixe
Three-course dinner, $35

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