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Weekends, the lines at this slick, white-tablecloth Cantonese restaurant can be out the door, but show up on a weeknight and you're whisked to seating along a wall of windows overlooking Flushing's riotous Main Street. Complimentary slices of sugared roast pork will tide you through the time it will take to parse the epic menu featuring technicolor photos of every dish from the tame (General Tso's chicken) to the adventurous (goose's feet with abalone sauce). The kitchen specialties are fresh and intensely flavored: sautéed pea shoots come buried under a confetti of ginger, whole garlic cloves, and tiny dried shrimp; giant salt-and-pepper shrimp wear their shells under a sweet batter blasted with flakes of fried garlic and chilies. Barbecue is also stellar and the suckling pig is worth its weekends-only wait. Despite being served cold, the pork’s skin is crackling and its flavor rich. Downstairs, the restaurant’s no-frills take-out branch sells a revered $1 duck bun in addition to classic steam table fare. — Helen Rosner

Roast pig, $18.99; honey roast duck, $18.99; salt and pepper shrimp, $7.95; dried squid with pan-fried noodles, $6.50; Peking duck bun, $1.25