Natives line up nightly for the chance to scarf a burger and raise a pint in what is, essentially, a classic dive bar. With scuffed brick walls, wooden booths in the cramped back room, visible dust in the corners, a jovial bartender, and — most important! — cheap booze and food, it’s like a throwback to a pre–Sex and the City New York City. And the nine-ounce, plump, buttery burgers are deservedly famous. The fries are skippable, though they’re cheap enough that it’s no biggie to splurge. The entire menu (burgers, cheeseburgers, fries, and chicken sandwiches and grilled cheese, which are mediocre) of the no-frills place fits on a tiny chalkboard, and everything is served on crimped paper plates; don’t expect utensils. But to make up for the long wait, the food comes speedily, and you can linger over your beer, hobnobbing with the brokers, bohos, and slumming richies who populate the neighborhood. And you’d be hard-pressed to spend more than $20 — now this is NYC.