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Opened in 2009 by the owners of beloved trattorias 'ino and 'inoteca, Corsino threatens to induce a happy carb coma. The menu's direction has not changed drastically since Chef Tomas Curi landed in May 2011 fresh from a stint at Portland's Lolo. Breads and pastas remain the focus, though plates of meats and fish are well executed. If, on the rotating antipasti section of the menu, you see burrata, get it for creamy, oozy cheese flowing over the sides of grilled bread. Among the crostini, the fatback and grilled greens option is superior. Housemade ferrazzuoli, a thick, ropy spaghetti with a chewy substantive texture, is weighed down by a mixture of ground pork sausage, Calabrian chiles, fried whitefish, and lemon zest. It's a bowlful of fierce flavors. For something tamer, order the loosely packed heritage brisket meatballs in a pool of tangy, fresh tomato sauce. To drink, there are pages of Italian wines with many available in half bottles. The horizontally wood-paneled dining room sets the rustic tone, and many details add charm, like the worn-in red numbers painted on the tabletops. — Edna Ishayik

Burrata, $13

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