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In the warmer months, Cosenza’s fills two sidewalk carts with ice, stocks them with fresh oysters and clams, and sets out three plastic two-tops curbside to create a makeshift raw bar. The sweet, fleshy bivalves—Delaware Bays or buttery Kumamotos—start at $1 apiece, and make a perfect mid-shopping snack when bouncing between the bakeries, butchers, and pasta-makers of Arthur Avenue. The goods are shucked and served ice-cold, arranged on cheerful bright-blue ceramic plates with chunky wedges of lemon. Feel free to garnish with cocktail and/or hot sauce, but most items impress on their own. Skip the cherrystone clams—they’re unduly chewy—in favor of pert littlenecks that are bright with just a hint of brine. Inside the hushed storefront, Cosenza’s wares are fanned out in an icy rainbow of pinks, silvers, and whites. — Edna Ishayik

Kumo Moto oysters, $2.50 each, Little Neck clams, $10 a dozen.