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The upscale sandwich bar Cosí has gone through many changes since it first opened in 1996, but the star here remains its bread. There's only one available—salty, slightly greasy flatbread, baked on the premises. When pulled apart, the flatbread forms a wraparound pocket for the sandwiches. The best fillings, such as the tangy turkey light, with refreshingly sharp honey mustard, or the tandoori chicken, which comes with a tangy roast pepper sauce, are a little out of the ordinary without being jarring or weird. You can also make up your own combos. Branches are busiest at lunch, when worker bees and tourists swoop down for a carb and protein fix, alternating soups and salads with the popular sandwiches. After 5 p.m., the vaguely Mediterranean interior, with its deep red and orange walls and large banquettes and tables, becomes more muted, and Cosí transforms into a more lounge-like environment, with table service and liquor available at certain locations. Items on the evening menu—which aren't available for delivery—are slightly less stop-'n-go: pizzas baked in the signature oven, a short list of pastas, and gooey desserts such as brownie sundaes, Mississippi mud pie, and do-it-yourself s'mores, served with their own little burner. — John D. Rambow