Cosme

The rating scale of 0 to 100 reflects our editors’ appraisals of all the tangible and intangible factors that make a restaurant or bar great — or terrible — regardless of price.

Read more about the new ratings
89 Impressive

Enrique Olvera (the man behind Mexico City’s Pujol) has tailored his menu at Cosme to New Yorkers’ current obsession with the clean, the comforting, and the non-ornamental.

35 E. 21st St., New York, NY, 10010

212-913-9659

http://cosmenyc.com/

Reserve on OpenTable

Known For

The lowdown

New York has traditionally been a graveyard for flowery, ambitious cooks from abroad, but with this hit Flatiron District restaurant, Mexico City’s Enrique Olvera appears to have cracked the code. The bar area serves a whole array of inventive tequila concoctions (call for as many Palomas as you can manage), and once you stumble back to the quieter, more peaceful dining area, you’ll find a small, impeccably sourced menu of Mexican favorites that combines comfort, technique, and a kind of elevated style in equal measure. If you’re in the mood for an extravagant big-city feast, call the magisterial duck for two, which the chefs braise to a sticky softness in citrus, condensed milk, and Mexican Coke, among many other things, finish in a sizzling cast-iron pan, and hoist to the table with a stack of the famous house tortillas. Save a little room for the desserts, in particular, the much-hyped (and -Instagrammed) husk meringue, which manages by some strange miracle to taste like fresh-milled corn, a meringue cookie, and the finest Parisian crème anglaise more or less at the same time.

Adam Platt

What you need to know

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized