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Counter, a sophisticated organic wine/martini bar and vegetarian bistro, pleases the small realm of the senses even as it sustains the larger world of the global environment, with a twist. Namely, Counter pours 300 earth-friendly wines and funky martinis made with herb-infused vodkas from a semi-circular oak bar tiled in beige marble, with seating at luncheonette-style swivel stools. Soft lighting and beige walls set a mellow mood in the dining room; subtle green and burgundy banquettes get a welcome mid-century jolt from orange wall hangings and an orange wine "tree" rack near the door. The kitchen takes fine advantage of seasonal produce grown in owner Deborah Gavito's rooftop garden, and delights in artfully reconstructing meatless versions of classic dishes. Pâté is made from ground cashews and kalamata olives, seasoned with garlic oil and paprika. Tangy sun-dried tomatoes in a green paella, peppery-rich with arugula emulsion, contrast happily with sweet caramelized pearl onions. In a multiculti nod, the paella's topped with tamari-braised slices of homemade seitan, a spongy wheat gluten-based meat substitute. Risotto's made without the rice, of garlic-scented minced cauliflower surrounded by fried sage-infused polenta sticks, and crowned by succulent braised shiitake mushrooms. A hot fudge sundae with maple pecan soy ice cream adds a semi-decadent coda. — Michael Anstendig

Sat.—Sun., 11 a.m.—4 p.m.

Cauliflower risotto, $18