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As kebab houses go, the Country Kebab lunch counter resides on the health-conscious end of the spectrum. Sandwiches are served in Atkins-friendly whole-wheat wraps instead of bulky pitas, falafel is pan-fried rather than dunked in a Frialator, and the chicken and lamb in the kebabs are lean. Even the doner kebabs keep their decadence in check, with remarkably little grease in the meat. Across from the grill, appetizers are arrayed cafeteria style. The hummus is creamy and light, with subtle hints of lemon. Baba ghannouj is sweet, as are the stuffed grape leaves, prepared in the classic Turkish style, with raisins and pine nuts. On a lower shelf are knishlike pastries, with flaky phyllo dough surrounding savory fillings. The chicken version is delicious, hearty like a pot pie. The space is small, with table seating for eight in the center of the room, and stools arranged along its clean white tile walls. Turkish tourist-board images of carefree vacationers contrast with the harried expressions of pedestrians on the sidewalk outside. Patrons seeking an additional healthful effect need look no further than the ceiling, where a pair of dangling blue nazars keep the evil eye away. — Ethan Wolff

Sedutto ice cream and Ciao Bella sorbettos are sold here, as is a red Turkish nectar that tastes exactly like liquid cherry pie.

Chicken pie, $3.95; lamb-shish-kebab sandwich, $6.50; chicken-doner platter, $9.50