Profile

Husband-and-wife owners Andrea and Arcenio Rosas continue their rustic Italian streak (Max Soha, Max Caffe, Fragole) with this trattoria and wine bar housed in an old railroad station under the rumbling Henry Hudson Parkway. The pair kept the space's original exposed beams, bricks, and cement floors, and added their own touches like an open kitchen, dim chandeliers, and a wood-burning pizza oven from Verona, which they insist is the only one of its kind in the country. The monstrous fire-breather arrived with its own technician, and features a large rotating stone that can crisp up to a dozen thin-crust pies at a time, like the savory Piemonte, topped with silky robiola cheese, cherry tomatoes, and peppery arugula. The kitchen also turns out hearty pastas like pappardelle topped with tender chunks of honey-braised short rib ragù. Classic desserts including tiramisu and gelato are made in house, and after dinner you can linger in the second-floor lounge, replete with mismatched thrift store furniture and a bar forged entirely out of old wooden doors. — Pervaiz Shallwani

Tagliata, $17.95