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Cozy Soup 'n Burger is neither cozy, nor a place to recommend for soups or burgers. Garish, busy, and medium-sized, it is nothing more than one of hundreds of different diners found throughout the city, with the same broad, ubiquitous range of fare that potentially offers something for everyone. That is, except pleasure. It is perhaps from nominal obligation that 30 different, "jumbo" burgers compose the center of Cozy's tri-fold menu. Unfortunately this homage doesn't extend to quality. Order the eponymous Cozy Burger, and you'll be treated to a mass of canned mushrooms, sautéed onions cooked only to a mild sweat, and melted, bright orange cheese, all atop a nine-ounce patty of insipid, crumbly beef that oozes more water than juice when you press it against the bun. The Santorini burger, topped with fresh spinach, onions, and feta, is better, but you're still left holding a drippy mess. Split-pea soup tastes more of salt than dried-peas. One bright spot is the milkshakes. Made from fresh ice-cream, with egg and banana optional, they are thick and creamy, with each slurp bringing and old-fashioned smile to your face. — Jamal Rayyis

Milkshake, $4