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Todd Mitgang’s infatuation with ceviche began in cooking school, where, he says, “you learn that acidity and salt make food jump out at you. The word bright comes to mind.” It’s that quality that Mitgang tries to capture at Crave Ceviche Bar, where he takes a playful approach to “cooking” raw proteins with everything from tomato water to Champagne. Everything besides the tempura-fried rock shrimp and the serrano-ham crostini starts out raw and is cured in its marinade, the components of which are identified on the menu by the term “ceviche’d.” The Maine lobster roll, for instance, is made from meat that’s “ceviche’d” in Meyer-lemon juice, while the yellowfin tuna marinates in watermelon juice and Chinese red vinegar. Mitgang applies the technique to beef, too, bringing his Worcestershire-sauced, lemon-juiced filet mignon sliders to medium-rare without the benefit of a flame. Even beer is served “mordida style” with lime juice, salt, and Tabasco. — Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite

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