Mon-Wed, noon-10:30pm; Thu, noon-11pm; Fri, noon-midnight; Sat, 11:30am-midnight; Sun, 11:30am-10pm
1 at 18th St.; F, M at 14th St.
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Julieta Ballesteros has graduated from teeny Mexicana Mama in the village to a narrow earth-toned spot of her own. There she is in the open kitchen, a small superwoman with a couple of slow-moving sidekicks watching every move, dishing up stylish plates of refined cocina Mexicana. Ribbons of pork fill her taquitos, painted with a tomato-chorizo paste and the Mexican cream that gives this spot its name. The pleasant afterburn of impeccably cooked scallops with avocado and small corn tostados sets off irrepressible moans of pleasure. All of us are equally taken by a raucous family of textures in a salad with peanut guajillo vinaigrette. Excuse my sticker shock, but it seems that $10 desserts are the sweet leveler now. I guess the prices indicate the new level of ambition here.Brunch
Sat.—Sun., 11:30 a.m.—3:45 p.m.