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This venue is closed.

Europeans know how to make the familiar things in life just a little bit nicer, and that applies to counter-service eateries as well. In Midtown, this sole American branch of an Italian café chain accommodates guests with high-backed red velvet seats running along the wall, iced coffees served in tall glasses rather than plastic, and bottles of wine displayed on handsome wooden shelves. Its quiet atmosphere and its location across from the New York Public Library make it a magnet for businesspeople on casual lunch dates, along with solitary book readers and wiped-out tourists. The Italian servers will take breakfast orders until 5pm, but the main draws from lunchtime to closing are the panini, pasta, and salad, as well as the espresso and cappuccino. The round panini semplice, or simple panini, are reminiscent of bar snacks in Rome, while the sandwiches on focaccia and ciabatta are American-sized, layered with such rich combinations as slow-roasted beef with fontina and caramelized onions, and bresaola, goat cheese and arugula. Some ingredients, particularly the parmesan and other cheeses, aren't as robust as they could be, but the tangy smoked prosciutto, cremini mushrooms, and pine nuts in a Tirolese salad are most welcome Italian additions. — Karen Hudes

Upstairs, the private dining room can be seat up to 50 people. A range of pastries are available in addition to savories, and orders for delivery can be placed online.

Tirolese salad, $8.50; roast beef panini on ciabatta, $10