- READER REVIEWS
Nearby Subway Stops
A, B, C, D, E, F, M at W. 4th St.-Washington Sq.; 1 at Christopher St.-Sheridan Sq.
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
- Full Bar
4th St. to 12th St., Lafayette Ave. to West Side Hwy.
This venue is closed.
Cucina Stagionale just might relieve you of your red-sauce prejudice. Unpretentious and welcoming despite cavernous ceilings and blurry frescoes of Venice, the restaurant serves Italian-American comfort food at its most unapologetic. Plump meat lasagna is tucked in with a satisfyingly crispy blanket of cheese, and the sweet and creamy crab cakes manage to be both fluffy and rib-sticking substantial. Basics like veal parm and spaghetti with meatballs outshine fancier dishes, like an overcooked red snapper alla puttanesca and mealy, meat-scarce stuffed clams. The defiantly un-hip crowd here could have been zapped here by aliens from an Ohio Shoney's: middle-aged tourist couples traveling through town, multi-generational families on a day trip into town, shy students on awkward dates. And that classic red sauce, so beloved in childhood, turns out to be a little oversweet for adult palates, unless it’s matched with something savory or creamy, like meat or cheese, for balance. Desserts are iffy; why not stroll over to Rocco’s on Bleecker for after-dinner ices and spectacular sfogliadelle?Recommended Dishes
Crab cakes, $8.95; meat lasagna, $8.95
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