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Nearby Subway Stops
6, J, N, Q, R, Z to Canal St.; B, D at Grand St.
- No Alcohol
This is Hong Kong-style sai chaan, or Western comfort food (mostly American and Italian with a heaping helping of Japanese), as interpreted by an all-¬Chinese kitchen for a predominantly young, bubble-tea-slurping Chinese-American audience. Which is not to say you wouldn’t do well to make it your own go-to neighborhood coffee shop, as a gang of uniformed gastronomes from the nearby Fifth Precinct have done. What do they keep coming back for? A decent burger, fat fries dusted with Parmesan and togarashi, mussels steamed in sake, Pullman-style toast smeared with peanut butter and drizzled with condensed milk, barbecued ox tongue, and fried calamari. But that’s not all. There’s a fantastic spaghetti with sea urchin doused with a veritable Niagara of creamy sauce that would make flames shoot out the eyes of Marcella Hazan. Also delicious, not to mention forward-thinking: a chicken Caesar salad that tosses out the grilled chicken in favor of deep-fried pork katsu. And if you like grain dishes that fall vaguely under the heading of risotto, there’s something known as “creamy rice,” a soul-soothing concoction that comes with a choice of toppings; go for the charred chicken necks, if they’re available, and you won’t be sorry.Recommended Dishes
BBQ ox tongue, $6.95; sea-urchin pasta, $9.
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