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Da Antonio’s regional Italian comfort food fits every stereotype of Italian cooking, but the Armani-or Channel-clad new-and old-money clientele don’t seem to mind. They appreciate the flattering lighting, and if they’re not admiring the remains of a stained-glass skylight overhead they can see how very fine they look in one of the room’s many mirrors. Walls are hung with covered plates depicting the Italian countryside. But by true Italian standards, flavors are timid. The mainly Northern choices include risottos common to Piedmonte and Veneto; polenta, most popular in Lombardia and Piedmonte; and Liguria-style seafood-based pastas. One anomaly is the Sicilian-derived rigatoni alla norma, with baby eggplants and ricotta. Lombardia-style grilling, used for several veal, chicken, and filet mignon cuts, involves pounding meat flat, then charring it. This moisture-locking method gives the chicken breast a pleasing texture—but doesn’t improve its personality. Only sides of roasted potatoes and green beans sautéed with garlic and mushrooms deliver the garlic-and-oil piquancy found in the old country. Tomato-based lobster bisque, too, is a tangy-sour surprise, with chewy lobster chunks throughout. The live pianist and jazz singers crank out standards, and on breaks they nurse their drinks and reminisce. It’s the kind of place Sinatra would have liked, even if he didn’t eat here. — Timothy Cooper

A jazz pianist and singers soothe with mood-setting standards Tuesday through Friday from 7:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. on most nights.

Lobster bisque, $9.95