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Framed Fellini posters, warm wood paneling, and sparkling stained glass lend this upscale trattoria an inviting, familial atmosphere. Inside the spacious dining room, meals begin with crusty bread, olives, salumi, and bruschetta, all before uniformed waiters rattle off delectable lists of seasonal fare, including earthy, cloud-soft ravioli stuffed with veal and mushrooms. Northern Italian starters like thin-sliced bresaola, of slightly salty air-dried beef, are followed by salsicce alla griglia, a rich, grilled sage-flecked sausage, and homemade pappardelle and fusilli pastas. Branzino al forno, a whole Mediterranean sea bass rubbed with garlic and rosemary, is smoothly filleted tableside. A well-curated wine list, with bottles that won’t double your dinner tab, makes the dining experience that much more pleasant. If the service, generous portions, and flattering lighting aren’t enough to charm you, the complementary sweet plate of Italian cookies at the end of your meal surely will. — Alexis Korman

Branzino al forno, $28.50; salsicce alla griglia, $21.50