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Da Noi, the Gomez family’s third restaurant (the first is in Bayonne; the second, in Staten Island’s industrial Travis neighborhood) is packed with devotees of solid Northern Italian fare and old-school old-world charms. Inside, a swirling, wrought-iron divider demurely parts the well-stocked bar from the pretty dining room — elegant with deep, rich, red-stained wainscoting and buttery-gold walls hung with chic Italian posters. At best, fresh flavors and good ingredients rule: Sample the thick veal chop, well-seared and seasoned with salt, pepper, and fragrant fresh sage, or the grilled, velvety chicken livers with a sweet-sharp balsamic over bright field greens. Other plates overflow, and less would be a welcome bit more: The lovely Rottolo Montanara, a homemade flat pasta rolled around a rich stuffing of creamy spinach, Parmesan, and wild mushrooms, doesn’t benefit a bit from the accompanying pink cream sauce. Nightly specials showcase the kitchen’s boisterous strength. — Amy Zavatto

Fegatini di pollo, $13.95; osso bucco, $26.95; veal chop, $26.95; vitello Milanese capriciosa, $16.95