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It may be perched on Forest Hills’ prewar Metropolitan Ave., but Danny Brown’s conveys an unmistakable Soho vibe. Chef-owner Brown, formerly of the now-defunct Cub Room, on Prince Street, has transplanted the gallery district’s artsy aesthetic to the neighborhood where he grew up. His elegantly spare corner bistro is hung with abstract canvases and fronted by an alluringly lit and inviting wine bar. Brown, a former sommelier, proffers not-the-usual-suspects by the glass and flight, along with a bar menu of fromage and house-made charcuterie such as a smooth, deeply porky pâté. The eclectic dinner menu ranges from pasta to salmon to salads (a luscious endive-watercress with lardons and blue cheese may scare yoga babes). Full-flavored entrées include a juicy organic half chicken roasted Tuscan-style under a foil-wrapped brick that presses the skin’s goodness into the meat. In fall and winter, Brown prepares his iconic version of braised short ribs: burgundy-marinated, fork-tender, and set on creamy polenta. His bravura burger, a hubcap of intensely beefy chopped sirloin deftly grilled to order and served with perfect fries, conjures thoughts of “best in town.” A dwindling generation of Forest Hills yentas won’t embrace Danny Brown, but Manhattan-schooled locals will kiss its portals. — Karen Tina Harrison

Danny Brown offers a $26 (“bargain-priced”) three-course prix fixe on Tuesdays.

Serrano ham croquettes, $9; endive and watercress salad, $11; organic chicken “under a brick,” $23; bacon-cheese burger with fries, $16