Sun-Thu, 11:30am-10:30pm, Fri-Sat, 11:30am-11pm
4, 5, 6 at 59th St.; E, M at Lexington Ave.-53rd St.
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
45th St. to 65th St., York Ave. to Eighth Ave.
The dining room at Darbar Grill—an offshoot of Darbar on 46th St.—has the kind of muted, old boys’ club appearance typical of a midtown steakhouse: Brown hard-backed leather seats with white stitching, wood floors and wall panels, and unobtrusive yellow sconces. A shiny peacock figurine and a traditional bowl of supari by the door are the only flourishes. Nor does the menu look like your average curry-in-a-hurry spot. Chef John Das has bigger, fancier ambitions and, thankfully, his creations are more enticing than the décor. A starter of grilled scallops, smallish and chewy, is enlivened by mango sauce. Even better, an inspired, fiery mix of pesto and cilantro coats jumbo shrimp prepared in a tandoori oven. Gomes’s attention to detail and presentation extends to basics like bhel, a huge mound of puffed rice, chick peas, tomatoes, and tamarind sauce sprinkled with chopped parsley.
Scallops, $13, kheema matter, $15, cilantro-pesto tandoori shrimp, $22