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633 Second Ave.,
New York, NY 10016
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4, 5, 6, 7, S at Grand Central-42nd St.
$11-$27
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Recommended
25th St. to 55th St, First Ave. to Fifth Ave.
This venue is closed.
Chef Lahcen Ksyier's eggplant salade berbère—best of the starters—is savory and the tall pile of couscous royale is crowned with spicy merguez sausages. There are also ribbons of grilled squid, sardine tajine, and crisp little briwates—pastry triangles sprinkled with sugar in imitation of Morocco's beloved pastilla. Splendidly dense whole-wheat bread, missing only a hit of anise, is baked to co-owner Mourad El-Hebil's specifications by an Italian baker in Astoria. The simmering summer evening calls for refreshingly superior sangría by the pitcher. Early on, the kitchen is still finding its strength. Chicken baked with green olives and lemon confit in a terra-cotta tajine ought to be moister, and lamb shank classically paired with prunes tastes overcooked, too. But poached pear chunks with lemon sorbet or vanilla ice cream in a martini glass is an inspired ending.
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