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Jack Lamb, the suave, super-dapper, pocket-square-sporting, Hog-ridin' gastropreneur—whose culinary fiefdom includes Jewel Bako and Jack's Luxury Oyster Bar—has been known to behave somewhat like a fickle schoolgirl when it comes to opening and closing restaurants. The sixteen-seat space that was previously Grace's Kalbi Bar and before that Jewel Bako Robata has seamlessly become an elegant tapas bar (or "Franco-Spanish-inspired small plates" restaurant in Lambspeak), where Wesley Genovart, a Perry St. grad who looks to be about 12, fusses over his bite-size creations in plain view of diners seated side-by-side at the food bar. With its reverential service, its frequent changes of silverware, and assorted other flourishes, this isn't your ordinary toothpick-flying, sangría-flowing tapas bar. Genovart's menu makes use of such currently fashionable A.W. (After Wylie) cooking techniques and ingredients as sous vide and xanthan gum. But nothing tastes forced or contrived. Flavors, for the most part, are bold and harmonious, and often so rich that the smallish portions make perfect sense. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

A five-course tasting menu is available for $50.

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New York Magazine Reviews

• Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite's Full Review (6/12/06)

Featured In

• Cheap Eats Guide 2006 (8/7/06)
• L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Counter Offers (8/28/06)