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More bourgeois than bohemian, Demarchelier’s cheerfully noisy, cozy quarters showcase a collection of paintings by the owner, set between the casual bar area and the back dining room. The menu’s mainly familiar hits from French bistro fare, like standout French onion soup and briny moules mariniere au vin blanc, in a cream-enriched broth. Main courses also hew to the classics; duck confit is served over a hearty mix of tomato- and tarragon-scented flageolets. For pure French luxe, sample the Dover sole. Flour-dredged and pan-fried in butter, this tender fillet is accompanied by a grilled lemon half and fat wedges of boiled potato, tossed in plenty of butter and chives. — Benjamin Kneen

A two-course, $26 prix-fixe menu is served all day and includes a glass of wine.

French onion soup, $8.25; moules mariniere au vin blanc, $11.95; duck confit, $24.50; Dover sole, market price