M-F 11:30 a.m.-3p.m., M-Th. 5-11, Fri-sat 5-12, bar open til 2 a.m. bar menu served until 2, sun 5-11
1, 2, 3 at 34th St.-Penn Station; 1, 2, 3, 7, N, Q, R, S at Times Sq.-42nd St.; B, D, F, M at 42nd St.-Bryant Park
The American steakhouse grew out of bar culture, so Desmond's Steakhouse seems like a logical next step for Dublin-born owner Paul Hurley, whose Irish pubs and bars dot the city. Hurley wanted to refine the quintessential steakhouse experience, and this two-story meat McMansion in the garment district has the classic markings: tufted banquettes, dry-aged beef supplied by Strassburger Steaks, and an extra-jazzy soundtrack. The chef, previously of Brasserie 8 ˝, tweaks steak standards while still keeping the dishes familiar. The rib eye — seasoned, seared, then thrown into an 1,800-degree broiler — comes out with a crust that resembles chicharrónes, and the generously portioned wedge salad is adorned with hunky pieces of applewood-smoked bacon. If you don’t feel quite like steak, Desmond's offers "signature dishes" like braised lamb shank in addition to a raw bar and seafood entrees. Wash it all down with a pre-Prohibition-era cocktail, designed to make you feel like you're in a New York City of another time.