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The founders of this dim sum parlor were a French-American food writer and a Hong Kong chef. While they’re no longer associated with the restaurant, their influence can still be seen in menu items like dumpling dough flavored with beet juice, seasoned beef patties on steamed buns with taro fries, roast chicken smothered with fried garlic stems, and more than 24 kinds of dumplings. Plus four variations on the dough-wrapper theme, four different sauces, and microwave-safe takeout containers. For a heartier meal, try a platter of the fluffy seafood fried rice (with lightly whisked eggs and slivers of apple-green broccoli stems) or the thin strips of salt-baked pork, fried into crinkly shapes like some strange form of ribbon candy. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Dim sum platter, $13.95 for ten pieces; roast chicken with fried garlic stems, $17.95; hamburger in a steamed bun with ginger sauce, $12.95